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Koh Phi Phi Don

Written on: Wednesday February 18th, 2009

A journal entry from: Thailand 2009

Today I left Railay. At the time I didn't know Railay was 10 times better than anywhere else I would go in the south of Thailand.

I had to wait on the beach for an hour for my longtail to the ferry. I basically had to wade out to the boat carrying all my stuff, then the boat goes up beside the ferry and I jumped on - very adventurous I thought! The ferry was pretty boring, but had super powerful a/c and the cleanest toilet in all Thailand for some bizarre reason.

Once I got to Phi Phi Don, my mission was to find accommodation before I melted under the weight of my bags. The place I found had the nicest owners in Thailand, the manager would say "Hello Megan" everytime I went in/out and ask how my day had been etc. Then, instead of taking it easy, I decided that climbing the stairs up to the 1000ft high lookout (at 1pm in the middle of the day) was an excellent idea. The workout was probably as bad as aikido, but I hadn't done anything more strenuous than walking for 2 weeks. But, I saw a snake! And the view was good, probably the only thing I liked about Phi Phi.

Afterwards I walked around town a bit, it's probably the MOST TOURISTY place in all Thailand, there's no other industry on the island. And all the tourists are the same: 18-30, bronzed, long blonde hair, irritating European accent, giant tattoos, scant clothing, dumb chick lit reading material (lots of copies of Twilight on the beach). I felt very out of place. The only cute thing is even though there's no cars on the island (and very few motorbikes) people say "beep beep" when wanting to pass you on their bike/with their trolley.

Then, the worst mistake ever: I headed to the main beach/bay Ao Lo Dalam. The water is really shallow, even 300-400m out you are only up to your chest. It also looked really dirty, I wasn't game to put my head under. So, I soon headed back to the beach to lie and read. Unfortunately, at that same time, 2 drug-fucked or drunk or just immature and attention-seeking backpackers started having sex on the beach. This was at 3pm in the afternoon in front of at least 200 people. Eventually it stopped, and the guy (brunette Scandinavian backpacker badly sunburnt) just walked up to one of the bars to get beers like nothing had happened. While his partner (who looked like a younger/rougher Courtney Love) just walked into the sea to wash herself off! I left that beach and wouldn't go back even if someone paid me. I can'tbelieve how rude and self-centred and disrespectful some people are (and it seems especially when they are far away in a foreign country).

That was enough to put me completely off Koh Phi Phi Don forever and I would have left the next day except I had paid for accommodation already for the next night. On top of seeing fuckwits having sex in public, that night I got food poisoning from dinner - vomiting every 20 mins all night! So I had to miss out on catching a boat to Koh Phi Phi Lh (where they filmed The Beach) and swimming with sharks. Koh Phi Phi sucks if you have a brain.