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Mud Pyramids, Sand Cities and Carpark Hotels, Trujillo

Written on: Monday September 1st, 2008

A journal entry from: Trails in 2008

We have to stop in this town to catch a night bus to the Peruvian mountains, it has some nice pre-Incan ruins and a picturesque colonial centre to see.  Of course we don´t believe the taxi driver when he tells us there is a big conference in town and there are no rooms – but turns out he´s right.  He wants to take us 10 minutes out of town but we persist to find somewhere in the centre and point out a place to him as we drive past – he assures us its for rent "by the hour", so we trust him on that one and keep moving.  We spot a carpark building that has an accommodation sign, it is probably one of the more interesting places we have stayed - we got the Japan room, complete with rice paper doors and a big oriental fan decorating the wall.  We´re just happy to be lodged in the centre of town, although I couldn´t shake off the feeling that there were cameras in behind those huge wall to wall mirrors! 

We toured around some of the pre-Incan sites, from around 1400AD.  The Temple of the Sun and the Moon were made in mud, pyramid style, that now look just like 2 big hills but we give them credit for having anything left after all this time!  Every hundred years the existing level would get filled in and a new level would get built.  The residents paid their taxes by making mud bricks that bore their family symbol on them.  Our guide wasn´t so good and Alison-tour-geek was asking too many questions.  I was onto her – she wanted to blame everything on the Spanish (which is fair enough) but her maths didn´t seem to add up.  Resigned myself to searching the internet for the answers later.

 Ready to move on, we are disappointed to find out that all the night buses are full. We are used to turning up an hour before the bus leaves in Ecuador, seems like we will have to be more organised here.  We spend the day entertaining ourselves by testing the boundaries of personal space.  When I press my shopping basket into the leg of the woman beside me, she doesn´t flinch, look my way nor budge an inch.  We stop giving way to other couples on the footpaths, pedestrian-style "chicken", to see what happens (they don´t even make eye contact as they boof your shoulder).