So I had to make an emergency change of plans earlier this week. My friend wanted to take me to Ipoh but couldn't go on the only weekend I was free, so I had to re-arrange. I went to the travel agency office and inquired whether there was room on the trip for the weekend-- only at a fan hostel, she said. Great. Fan hostel. Cheap. It's the option that I wanted to take but was too afraid to do it because I was afraid the conditions would be too dirty for my privileged ass. And I was correct. BUT I AM A SURVIVOR and survived the gross hostel that no one else seemed to have any kind of problem with. There were teeny tiny little ants that bit my feet during the night hahaha and NO MIRRORS. I didn't see my own face the whole weekend. 

So from KL we got a van at 8:30 in the morning, then an enjoyable 3 hour drive to a place called Jerantut where we ate lunch. I love traveling through Malaysia, seeing the different homes, development contrasted with houses that have been there forever, monkeys climbing electricity lines, huge mountains that look like the bottoms have detoriated leaving open caves that hold so much mystery and fascination for me as I drive by and think, one day, I will find a way to climb inside....

But, the farther the way you get from KL the worse the bathroom conditions. I mean very very bad. It impresses me, even, that people would keep washrooms in that state. It doesn't matter how the rest of that restaurant looks, the washroom will be deplorable. Which is kind of hilarious. I like watching the faces of the european women as they come out, a little disturbed, embarrased, and thinking to themselves, "what did I sign myself up for?" Fortunately, I know exactly what I signed myself up for, and was not surprised or embarrased, and make sure to always carry my own tissues. ;)

So, during lunch I was a little lost. I forgot how to be comfortable alone around everyone else that are in groups. Then I ended up sitting at a table with...FRENCH TOURISTS! yessss This is my moment. Ever since arriving in KL I've been really devastated that I haven't been able to speak French or hear French. So I met these guys who were VERY IMPRESSED that I spoke *ahem* french. So I ended up chillen with them all weekend, since they were in the same tour as me, and I spoke broken french and they spoke broken english, and it was a lovely. We drove to a river and had a 3 hour boat ride in one of those little boats in the pictures. Took some nice naps and woke up each time like "HEY I'M IN THE JUNGLE HOW AWESOME!" 

The first night we went on a "night walk" where a guide takes you through the jungle with a flash light and SOMEHOW spots these bugs. He just had this instinct for them and would be like "oh and over here is this just centipede" "and right above your heads are two snakes chillen in the trees." The pictures don't do the bugs justice. That centipede really freaked me out. Put house centipedes to shame. The best part was listening to the jungle. All the bugs and frogs were out, singing to their hearts content. 

Next morning, Jungle Trekk. I was told that this was going to be a baby hike but..it kind of kicked my ass. I mean, I'm not sore or anything, but my heart was definitely like "Dear Clara, you did not do enough cardio in your life to be comfortable with this hike. Please go to the gym when you get back. kthnx." A little embarrasing. I didn't get to see any leeches..very disappointing. The trail we took was very commonly used so the wildlife had backed out for the most part...but you still got to experience the sights and sounds of the jungle, see how the the trees grow and how the roots just totally dominate the ground. There is also a canopy walkway which is 40 meters up at it's highest. Very cool. I love love love being around nature. I will have to make hiking a regular priority when I have money and also free time (never).  

later in the day we went to go visit a local village with some indigenous people. They're called the Orang Asli. I was not looking forward to this since in my experience in Thailand, the tourism of local villages was shit and very colonial. "ooohhh look at the primitive people oohhhh look at how they live." But, the Orang Asli were pretty chill. The Guide seemed to be on really good terms with the Chief, and the chief was with us the whole time, we weren't just walking through so that the villagers could get a measely amount of money from the tour agency. (This may be because the day in Thailand cost 1000 baht-- about 34 dollars-- and the tour in Taman Negara cost 350 Ringgit-- about 100 dollars). The Orang Asli live by the jungle and spend a lot of the time deep in the jungle. They know it very well. They hunt with blow darts, which they've developed to be very aero-dynamic and to increase the pressure and everything. A lot of physics involved in that. They're a nomadic people, so one day they will just pick up and leave, and the travel agency might not even be told. They've been at their current location for 9 months, and they leave either when someone dies or when they just feel like the spirits there are not favorable to them anymore. They speak their own language and Malay, and trade with the Malaysians. They're one of the only groups that is allowed to hunt in Taman Negara. They were really really cool! Apparently they will let you just spend some time with them for a while and to repay them you can teach the kids how to read and write. 

I am super happy that Malaysia is conserving this part of the rainforest. Whenever I drive anywhere, it's palm tree plantations as far as the eye can see, and it's clear how easily it could have been wiped out. I was super disappointed though that there is still a ton of littering all over the place in Taman Negara. I was sitting in a boat with a Malaysian guy and he just threw his plastic bottle in the river. In a protected jungle park! what is that about!? And the tour guides were not shy about throwing their cigarette butts everywhere meanwhile all the tourists were neatly collecting them in little baggies to be thrown out later. I know it's their land but....come on! A plastic bottle!? really!? 

I was also super uncomfortable a lot of the time because I've noticed that the Malays don't really like me very much. Like I come into a souvenir shop and they just glare at me for being in their shop. Even though I'm buying something. Men glare at me. Women give me the STANK EYE to the extreme. I've learned to be very good at diverting my eyes and trying to be as non-offensive as possible. None of my friends are Malay. I just don't know what to think of it. Is it my skin? Possibly. But I don't really understand why the hatred is THAT STRONG. Is it my dress? Maybe...but the chinese dress the same way I do, so it really shouldn't be offensive. My body language? The fact that I am a woman who walks around alone a lot of the time? Or is just that being really unfriendly to strangers is normal? Or just to non-malays slash muslims? I don't know, but I'm really looking forward to not being glared at anymore. 

 Speaking of which....I am leaving Malaysia in 19 days. It's crazy! Who will I be when I come back? I'm curious to find out.