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Todos Santos surf and more

Written on: Sunday December 9th, 2007

A journal entry from: Camping Mexico


I am starting to compile some interesting stories from my experiences on this adventure, I am sure that as we continue further south they will continue to present themselves.

During the time since our last post we met up with two of our friends from Victoria who flew into San Jose Del Cabo. Not wanting to spend time in the resort town that is Cabo San Lucas we promptly ferried them back north to wonderful town of Todos Santos where we participated in tequila shots and beer drinking as we watched the sunset from our friend?s rooftop patio. 

Cerritos (sp?) was the break of choice for the first couple days as it was the best spot for some kooks to get their strength back before heading to a more serious wave (not that we got into serious surf last week). Cerritos is beach that extends southward from a point where the surf breaks. Most of the waves break on the beach but I am told that in ideal surf the point produces some nice rights. I tired of the beach break quickly and desired to get a more consistent wave.


I did head out with my sling at Cerritos with a guy who says he always catches big fish there. My mask kept fogging up even though I spat in it to start so my visibility was very bad. We headed out quite far, far enough to make me nervous that a current may catch us, and he then told me that sometimes a whale will come out of nowhere and freak you right out (him just saying that freaked me out). Alayna, Graham and Chris had seen whales breaching offshore while I was surfing earlier that day. I had enough and proceeded back to the beach, while on my way in I happened to come across a school of 100 plus sea rays swimming in a school, amazing but I wish I had better visibility to stop and take it all in.

We surfed at La Pastora twice, both at sunrise. The beach is gorgeous and produces nice clean rights with good walls. There was one set that came through on the second morning that made me realize that what people had told me, that it can get really heavy, was actually true. At sunrise on Thursday December 6th we were there to witness what one of the locals who had surfed there for the last seven years had never seen. A 24 ft 17 second swell produced glassy, consistent triple and sometimes quadruple overhead waves; this was the largest surf I had ever seen in person. The waves break close to shore and allow a front row seat to watch (30 spectators) the four guys brave enough to paddle out in action. I will regret not paddling out for the rest of my life however there was no big gun, which would have been required to catch the monsters, strapped to my roof. Thursday afternoon we headed for La Ventana.

After a stop at Soriana (Mex Walmart) we got lost in La Paz for about 45 minutes. La Paz is a safe city and it was of no concern however sunset was fast approaching and we did not want to drive the road to LV in the dark (rule #1 ? don?t drive at night). We were extremely lucky not to have been stopped by the Policia after turning down a one way street going the wrong way. We were at an Alto and turned left while the Policia were at the opposite corner stopped facing the other way. A quick U-turn and we were headed the right direction. I did not see the Policia until after it had unfolded and am very thankful that we escaped what could have been a major headache. We made it to LV with just enough time to setup camp before dark.

No wind for the following 4 days, great. We explored the beaches around LV and did some snorkeling. I have managed to catch a few small fish however have not gotten anything suitable to eat. We were given two fillets of Sierra fish at 10 AM one morning by a guy from Washington who was catching them while rowing his homemade rowboat; butter, garlic, salt, pepper, 7 min on the grill, one side only, great protein! One of the beaches has a hot spring at it however is of little use because you have to dig into the sand at the waters edge to get to the hot water (es MUI caliente) and you must sit in sand that scorches your skin. The others got an invitation to go wakeboarding in La Paz one of the days so Alayna and I went to check out The Bay of Dreams 30 minutes to the south. We met the real estate developer who owned 6 miles of beach front there with his partner. The market in The Bay of Dreams is for the super rich who build mega mansions on 120 ft beach front lots. All beaches in Mex are public so we were still able to drive my truck down the beach and park right in front anyways. No one in site, beach to ourselves, hot, sunny, beautiful water, boats in the bay, beers, books and a great afternoon.

We are back in La Paz planning our trip to the mainland via the ferry to Topolombompo. We are going to explore the beaches north of LP tomorrow then head south to Los Barillas (sp?) for some more camping before we hit our second of three ferry rides for the trip (the other two would be from and to Vancouver Island). Hopefully the skies will clear before we leave the Baja (it is the fourth time it has rained on us, I thought this was a desert?), after spending some time here I feel that I have only scratched the surface. Initially I thought that there was little here for me however have grown to appreciate the area much more and wish to come back to see it in more depth (I think I will feel this way about many areas on this trip). I will hand it over to Alayna now and read more of Bill Clinton?s auto biography.


This will be brief. Most of the highlights have been recapped by Colin.

Todos Santos is an eclectic town packed with art and great Mexican food. After overcoming our initial (and mostly unnecessary) fear of eating at the roadside taco stands, we have quit eating at any other sort of formal establishments. The food at these, uh, ?restaurants? is authentic, delicious, and cheap. Most tacos and burritos are about 10 pesos, which is less than 1 dollar. Sounds good to me and especially my steadily declining bank account. We were warned not to touch the mayo at these stands (hot sun + lack of refrigeration = no thanks) but that stuff is utterly nasty anyways. I won?t touch it at home, let alone at a Mexican taco stand.

We got ripped off by a gas station attendant in Todos Santos. JERK. Never, EVER, take your eyes off the pump, or the guy pumping your gas, even if he points and asks you ?how you say that (poinsettia) in inglez?? JERK. Why on earth would a Mexican gas attendant care what a damn flower is called in English, anyways?!? I can?t believe we fell for this one.

The unsightly and large bruise on my leg from my surf board fin has nearly disappeared. Finally. I surfed, rather, attempted to, at Cerritos a few more times this past week, and am developing a desire to really learn this sport. I was going to name my surfboard after one of the horses I ride, but Colin thought that was lame. I also decided I want a sticker that reads ?I?d rather be riding my horse? for my board, but Colin said that was lame, too :(

Hips are bruised again, and I need a rash guard.

I?m reading a highly entertaining, and totally un-educational book (thank you, Paris ? POLO is truly amazing), eating good food, and getting a tan, can?t complain?well, accept for the jellyfish who decided I was quite the threat and deserved a sting.

Hope everyone is doing great. I bet you?d be doing better if you came and visited us in sunny Mexico ;)


From MOM on Dec 10th, 2007

You may miss the comforts of home a little, but it was snowing in Victoria today, dark and cold. Your pictures are fantastic! Your adventure continues...

From Dad on Dec 10th, 2007

Great blog. I'm surprised you want to leave.

From pepperdine on Dec 15th, 2007

looks like fun. already ditched those kooksters? nothing but rain and snow in Vic. excellent waves though but I'm sure you don't miss the stumps for feet. you want to leave? to where? home already? enjoi, M