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Haad Yuan

Written on: Thursday January 27th, 2005

A journal entry from: South East Asia 2005

After staying in Haad Salad for a couple weeks, we decided to change the scenery slightly. At this point we were trapped on Koh Phangan.

Not actually trapped, but metaphorically. It is so fun and so beautiful, I have met people who went to Thailand and spent 4 or 5 months staying just on Haad Rin beach and then going home. Don't get me wrong, it is unbelievably fun: the people are amazing, travellers and locals alike, booze, drugs, adventure, swimming, food, shopping. Everything you need. But I wouldn't want to stay there for more then a couple weeks. It isn't Thailand. Its just a huge party that never stops. So depending what you're looking for, it may or may not be for you.

Anyways, at this point, it was the most fun I had ever had in my life. So instead of going to another island and explore more, we decided to go to the deserted beaches of Haad Yuan. Not far from Haad Rin, just around the bay actually, but there is no roads or power at Haad Yuan. It is accessible only by boat or by extremely strenous hike through the jungle. We took a boat around the bay and around what I deemed Monkey Point (it was covered in monkeys hanging out in the sun) and arrived in Haad Yuan.

The bungalows are built on this steep hill, which makes a chore to go from the beach or restaurants to your bungalow, especially since ours was the very top one, but the view was spectular. Unforutnately, being the very top bungalow, we were neighbours with the power generator which would drone on for a couple hours each night once the sun went down. Haad Yuan is more of a hippie/yoga beach then a party beach so it was much tamer and quieter.

We did some more playing in the sun, we hiked over to Haad Rin a couple times through the jungle pass, going so deep in the jungle it seemed like night, up to the top of a mountain, meeting "farmers", making fun of the giant spiders that must be lurking behind the veil of foliage in the darkness of the jungle, and eventually spitting us out in to the town of Haad Rin sweaty and dirty and thristy of beer.

At the tailhead there was the Mountain Bar. There are actually two bars called The Mountain Bar, but this one was hidden and secluded away from the beach. This would be a sancutary for us during our time on Koh Phangan. We became friends with the owner, his wife, daughter, and their dog Bepo. We would visit them every couple days and spend hours lazing around on their teak floors, listening to ill-mixed Bob Marley and Electronica, playing with Bepo, overlooking Haad Rin from above, and getting pwnd on beer and special lassi.

We were able to go to a Dark Moon Party, which is just the opposite of the Full Moon Party, occuring 2 weeks before (or after). We would learn that Thais will use any excuse to throw a party. Unfortunately the Dark Moon Party was pretty lame and being that we lived in Haad Yuan at the time and it was 4am in the morning, we were unable to get a boat to our beach. There was no way we could trek through the jungle in the dark either, so we slept on the beach for a bit.

When we woke up to catch a long tail back to Haad Yuan, the ocean had decided it hated us and was thumping. We convinced one guy to give us a ride after some pleading, but the ocean was too rough to go into our beach, so we ended up beaching (quickly!) at the next beach... otherwise known as The Santuary. The Santuary was this creepy, expensive yoga retreat the bay over. Everyone was up and walking about but nobody talked, they all just kept their heads low. Now I would look at it differently if it was a religious retreat or something, but its really just a bunch of rich westerners pretending so we scoffed and continued on our new trek over a new mountain to reach our bay.

After a week at Haad Yuan, we had decided we'd had enough of Koh Phagan and to go explore more of Thailand.