I had had trouble withdrawing from the ATMs here in India. The ATM fad is all new to the Indians. Usually withdrawing money for them requires at least 5 other family members or friends to pile into the ATM along with them to consult over what button to push, etc. It is a bit unsettling when your debit card keeps getting rejected at every atm you go to, plus I needed money for my trip to Nagaur for the Camel Fair taking place there. I headed to the tourist bureau in Jodhpur to check to see if they knew where the Centurion Bank of the Punjab was. This bank has given me money way back in Jaipur and I thought it was worth a shot. I would like to state that Lonely Planet, Rough Guide, and a whole flotilla of guide books say that the Jodhpur tourist bureau is very reliable and honest. They can be trusted. I was to find that this wasn't the truth.

 When I asked where the bank they told me that one of their employees would take me there on his motorbike. The man's name was Sanjay Sharma. They said he was trustworthy. I headed to the bank with him and the ATM gave me money, THANK GOD. After Sanjay took me back to the area where my guesthouse was. He asked if I would like to have a cup of Chai, and I said sure, what could it hurt. We went to meet his brother-in-law's family which was nice. Now I feeling like heading back to guesthouse so I headed off. Sanjay wanted me to meet him for a beer that night, I said that I would pass. He was getting wierd and clingy, so I dismissed the invitation and left.

 That night at 1130pm, Sanjay knocked on my door at the Hare Krishna guesthouse. The owner's nephew had let him in because Sanjay said that he was my friend. He was absolutely tanked, probably on drugs too. I wanted him to leave but dealing with drunken Indian men is not easy. So I had one beer with him and then told him quite politely to get out. I then went to bed. The next morning the manager of the guesthouse, Kamal, told me that 'my friend' had caused a lot of trouble. He had stolen a cell phone, 8000 rupees, and had then sat outside all night drinking Whiskey and making noise.

I went with Kamal on his motorbike to the Tourist Bureau to track Sanjay down because his phone was switched off. It became apparent that Sanjay didn't work for the Tourist Bureau, he was a crook. They had sent me off with a fucking crook. We then went to all the places he had taken me and to his family's home. We couldn't find him. Then we got a call from one of Kamal's nephews saying that Sanjay had come back to the guesthouse to claim his bike. We quickly sped back to confront him.

When I arrived at Hare Krishna, the scene was undescribable. A big melee had ensued on the front street. Sanjay had come and said something to the Brahman Hindu owner named Poonum. Poonum had cracked him in the face, Sanjay had been knocked the ground and was covered in mud. I was told be bystanders that this was an "Indian problem", no need for me to become involved. I guess this is how things are dealt with here, and it is not like Sanjay didn't deserve it. There was screaming, yelling, all of it. Sanjay was bleeding everywhere. They managed to calm the situation and get the stolen articles from a very drunk and drugged out Sanjay. These are sometimes the things that can happen over here - a lesson learned. Not sure what the lesson is, but I am sure that will come. Perhaps don't trust the tourist bureau, or anyone...? What a Valentine's Day - but the most memorable one I have ever had.

After the Royal Rumble I headed north to Nagaur, a small bf nowhere town where there is a famous Camel Fair. This was not one set up for tourists, they actually bought and sold things here so it was amazing. I was told about it by this Swiss-Austrian documentary maker named Werner. I went up to meet up with him. Apparently there were 80,000 people there, and 250,000 animals. Pretty insane. They fought, they negotiated, they smoked, they warmed themselves over dung fires. Quite authentic and great people watching.